WebMaster's NOTE: I found this article in the website archives. Although written several years ago, I think it is still informative for those with difficulty getting an HF station on the air, or newly licensed hams that are unsure of what it takes. Owen moved back up north several years ago, and has since passed. This is from 2012
End fed antennas
have worked well for me here in The Villages and may work
well for you. A bit of background..
The first
time I remember messing about with antennas was in 1947
when I ran a very long wire from our house, across the
street, to a tree. (Across a street? Really? Yep.) This
antenna fed my Philmore crystal radio, which I bought from
the Johnson Smith Company catalog (some of you may remember
this catalog) and it worked great. I later built my own
crystal set that worked even better.
Fast
forward some 65 years and here I am in The Villages trying
to rig a good stealth antenna for my Yaesu 450D.
My first attempt was a mini G5RV in the attic over the
garage. It worked and it worked well but there were some
“issues”....
Issue #1: Running the
antenna was a nightmare. Whacking my head on the beams in
the attic, punching a hole in my head on one of the nails
that was sticking through the roof, and developing major
kinks in my back twisting around various roof supports
(we’re none of us 18 anymore) and,
Issue
#2: Every time I keyed the transmitter, the lights on the
TV hutch would key ON/OFF. No problem there, I just
unplugged the lights... and,
Issue #3: Ah, now
we have the real problem. Seems that the attic over the
garage is the cable run for the TV feed and every time I
transmitted I’d blow away TV reception; and I want to
tell you, when you wipe out the signal for Dancing With The
Stars you do not have a happy home. And I even tried a
bunch of clamp-on ferrite cores with no success.
OK, time for Plan B. I did due diligence with Google
searching for “antenna stealth” and found an
end-fed made and sold by a ham club in Hawaii. They
promised all band capability, no radials or ground
required, and as it was only $44 I thought I’d give
it a try. It arrived in a couple of days and it consisted
of a 9:1 UN UN in a plastic junction box and 35 feet of
dark green wire.
I ran the antenna from a corner
of the house to a friendly palm tree and I was on the
air... the internal tuner in my Yaesu 450D tuned 40 through
6 meters just fine, 1.1:1 SWR, but it never really worked
well on 40 meters and was useless on 80 meters. Trimming
the wire to 18 1⁄2 feet improved performance on 20
and up even more. I’d guess I’ve some 2,000
QSO's, mostly PSK-31, using this antenna.
I
lived with these limitations for a year plus and thought
that a vertical might do better so I picked up an 18
1⁄2 foot S9 vertical by LDG Electronics and a 4:1
balun. Sadly, the vertical never really worked well
regardless of how many radials I installed ... my guess is
that the location I was forced to use, right next to the
house, was the killer for that antenna. The house is stucco
and behind the stucco is a steel mesh which I’d bet
did the antenna no good at all.
Now a while
back, Wally KI4VPD told me about a table that listed
“good lengths” for end-fed antennas. With this
in mind, I purchased 9:1 UN UN from Balun Designs and ran
another end-fed this time with a wire length of 52
1⁄2 feet, again from the palm tree but to a different
corner of the house, then a 100 feet of RG-8X from the UN
UN to my shack. The company’s recommendations are
that you try either:
1.Grounding the
“negative” connection on the UN UN,
2.Running a single counterpoise from that negative
terminal, length as long as the lowest band you wish to
operate on, and finally
3.No ground or
counterpoise, just let the coax shield act as your
counterpoise. I tested all three configurations and found
that #3, no ground or counterpoise, gave far and away the
best results for me - SWR 1.3:1 or better on all bands.
Now on to testing the both end fed antennas. I ran
both RG-8Xs to a two-position antenna switch in the shack,
thence to the Yaesu and rather than trying to have actual
QSO's, I fired up WSPR (Weak Signal Propagation Reporter)
and let it run on one band after another, power out 5
watts. Results:
•The 18 1⁄2 foot end
fed works better on 15, 12, and 10 meters. No signals found
on 6 meters.
•The 52 1⁄2 foot end fed
works much, much better on 80, 40, and 30 meters.
•While the 18 1⁄2 foot runs East-West and the
52 1⁄2 foot runs North-South, directivity on both
seem about the same, good results for all of North and
South America, Europe, and occasional Africa and
Australia.
References:
The first end-fed
was purchased from The Hawaii Emergency Amateur Radio Club,
$44, good people, profits go toward club projects:
http://www.earchi.org/92011endfedfiles/Endfed6_40.pdf
The 9:1 UN UN was from Balun Designs, $50 plus
shipping. The UN UN is on the following web-page:
http://www.balundesigns.com/servlet/the-102/QRP-9-cln-1-Unun-1.5/Detail
Click on Installation Notes and Wire Length/SWR
table on that page for wire-length details. Balun Designs,
by the way, is highly regarded in the amateur radio
community – check them out on eham.
WSPR
– Weak Signal Propagation Reporter – think
attended beacon where you transmit for 2 minutes at 5
watts, pause to receive other signals for 8 minutes, then
repeat. Everybody on-air using this mode posts the signals
received on the internet automatically. You can do a
real-time look at a map which will tell you how well your
station is doing compared to others in your general area.
Good writeup here:
http://www.g4ilo.com/wspr.html
Good luck and 73, I hope a stealth
end-fed will work well for you too.
Owen ex-KJ4YAC, N1KAM (SK)